The change diagram of ammonia, nitrite and nitric acid after new opening cylinder

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First, why change water
In freshwater breeding, almost every feeder has studied the nitrification system and studied ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Simply put, fish live in a small space inside, for home rearing, feeding fish is nothing more than a square, in such a relatively small space, fish excrement, food residue and so on these, even for a very perfect filtration system, it is not easy to achieve a balance, the final conversion, There may be an excess of nitrate, although low toxicity, but for fish is a tolerance, from the data, small fish preferably not more than 80-100ppm, safe range of 40PPM below, big fish can endure to a very large concentration of 120PPM. More than these values, there will be a sense of urgency (stress), laziness, erythema on the fins or see red blood vessels. So we usually change water regularly.
Of course, some fish friends also have a long-term non-change of water experience, their breeding has a common point is that many are green, moss, green algae or aquatic plants exist. Plants can effectively deal with nitrate, through photosynthesis oxygen, and a wide range of feeding density, or suitable for the filtration and so on, these are the reasons for long-term non-change water. But even so, it is difficult to achieve a complete balance, so I have not seen the real "water-free aquarium."
In addition, the change of water can increase the activity of fish, both can effectively promote the fish's metabolism and promote the growth rate of goldfish. These are the reasons to change the water.

Second, when should change the water (here refers to the partial change water)

As mentioned above, it is possible to determine whether water should be changed by the state of the fish. When the fish tail fin appears mild capillary, lazy swim, appetite decline, we must first consider is should change water rather than should first think of disease.
Sometimes we also choose the "simple rude" approach, which is to change water regularly. It is "simple but not rude, but effective", to be exact. Usually I change water one-fourth per week. This can effectively reduce the concentration of nitrates in the cylinder.
Some people feel that when the cylinder is built, the water in the cylinder suddenly becomes clear is the nitrification system completely formed. In fact, fish waste is broken down into ammonia by a heterogeneous bacterium. Ammonia is formed, and nitrite begins to grow. At first, the rate of nitrite propagation was slower than that of ammonia, and ammonia increased. By the eighth day, ammonia reached its highest concentration. As nitrite consumption of ammonia faster than the speed of ammonia formation, the concentration of ammonia gradually decreased, the 14th day, ammonia was progressively reduced to 0 nitrite by nitric acid bacteria decomposition into nitrate. Nitrite is formed, and nitric acid bacteria begin to grow. At first, the rate of growth of nitrate bacteria was slower than that of nitrite, and nitrite increased. By the 17th day, nitrite reached its highest concentration. As the nitrate consumption rate of nitrite exceeds the formation rate of nitrite, the concentration of nitrite decreases gradually, and on the 30th day, nitrite is reduced to 0. This passage is a bit difficult to understand, I borrowed from abroad (www.thegab.org), a diagram to illustrate:




[Green] represents the concentration of---nitrite

[Blue] represents the concentration of---nitrate

The number of days of horizontal marking as water-keeping

Yellow area: toxicity (Toxic levels)

That is, in the freshwater aquarium, 17 days later, nitrate is in the way up, this time should consider changing water.


For the green water rearing fish, the plant can effectively consume nitrate, so there are a lot of green fish farmers have their own exchange rate. For fish friends who have just come into contact with green water, the following signal in the green waters indicates that you need to change:
1, the water is too fat, and even a sticky feeling, there is a long time on the water can not burst bubbles exist.
2, green Water suddenly turned green, algae mass death
3, the water quality is too green



Three, should pay attention to the problem in the water exchange


This part is a bit messy.

If from the angle of the Four seasons, the promotion of winter, both the water temperature is lower when the frequency of change to slow. Summer, the water temperature is higher season, can increase the frequency of change;
Winter can choose to change the water in the afternoon or evening, summer should choose in the morning or after sunset to change water;
If from the stage of fish growth, the larval period can increase the frequency of water change, in order to promote the metabolism of fish, to promote the growth of fish. The fish-forming period or the old fish can be properly slowed down to maintain stability;
If the feeding process to consider, after feeding should not change water, after changing water should not be immediately fed;
Before changing water, the water should be placed for 48 hours, on the one hand can effectively let the chlorine in the water out, on the one hand, the parasite in the water can not find the host and death;
can also adopt the new water + new water mixing method, because there is a view that the new water chlorine can achieve the role of sterilization;
In short, water temperature is more important than chlorine in water. Be sure to achieve the same water temperature.
Maybe it was the habit of breeding the colorful fairy before, for the new water, can burst gas 12-24 hours, but definitely not to be able to soak the water for a long time, more than 72 hours of water I usually do not use.
When changing water, the water should be poured as slowly as possible to avoid impact to the fish body; in this way, it can slow down the severe vibration of the water body ph index, on the one hand can prevent the impact to fish body caused by fish disease.


Finish

The change diagram of ammonia, nitrite and nitric acid after new opening cylinder