To the guest "a shirt" have something to say

I heard Fank recently opened a conference for a shirt. Although no catwalk, but enumerate a shirt fabric, craft, version, ideas, feelings, and even fashion history, the Duke of Windsor, the last sacrifice of the "subversive" price: 129 yuan, and said that the price can be "more than a burst of thousand-yuan shirt", or even talk about fashion concept: "design, not only aesthetic, first of all the reasons for life." Costume design is the relationship between clothing and the body. "-a conference that had nothing to do with fashion, but because of this kind of talk, let the focus of fashion, we feel, have something to say."

1. "Misreading and misinterpretation"

First of all, let us be surprised that aged in the press conference two times to mention the current head of Chanel, "the Buddha" Lagerfeld-he is no doubt the current international fashion Circle of the leading-level figures. We were surprised to hear that the guest had to move out of his mouth for a shirt.

The first quote Lagerfeld: "I want to become a chic hanger." , and then aged sharply ironically:

"Why are the clothes wrinkled?" hung on the hanger must not wrinkle. The man said: I want to become a chic hanger, all his photos are standing very straight. Carl Lagerfeld, do you know who he is? (Audience: Chanel's design director) He can not twist his neck, bend his arms, bend his legs, and not bow his head. Every customer's users crowded subway, bus, can not be a hanger. "

In fact, this is purely mistranslation. The original "I want to be a chic coat hanger." Cutong Grammar should understand that "chic coat" is the whole "hanger" adjective. The correct translation is: "I hope to become a hanging clothes hanger." "If you polish it better, you can be:" I would like to be a hanger, wearing only fashionable clothes. ”

Lagerfeld his old body bone is really tough, 80 of the old still hands-on, cultivate in the forefront of fashion. However he "does not twist the neck, does not bend the arm, does not bend the leg, does not bow" is not in order to imitate a hanger. The focus of his remark is on the passion and obsession of fashion, which is "chic".

Old English is not good to be deceived by bad translation, make a joke. We suggested that he should take a refresher course in English for the latter, who was also better at making speeches and fooling the audience.

The second quote, where the guest to learn good, no longer quote the original English, directly threw a Chinese. Unlike the last sarcasm, this time the old Lagerfeld the supremacy of the fashion circle:

"That's what Carl Lagerfeld said. Visible, a shirt in the modern fashion positioning of the high. ”

Old fashioned this remark as a summary of how the shirts evolved from the old-fashioned fashion of Europe into modern forms. However, his explanation does not strike Lagerfeld's "high status, unmatched" connotation.

In fact, the first shirt in Europe in the 18th century, is for the performance of aristocratic ornate decorative style exists, neckline, cuffs wide lotus leaf edge, close to the shape of the women's shirts. And as the gentleman dressed "three-piece set" gradually fixed down, the top and vest became the main style embodiment, originally as underwear shirt actually no longer important. The nobility also wears it to give its new meaning: a white as a new shirt, is living a rich identity symbol.

In other words, the white shirt is important because of its "useless", this is Lagerfeld mouth "the beginning of fashion" connotation: all the beauty of modern fashion, from this "useless." In other words, the human society has already developed to no longer need clothing just cover body, warmth of the "functional" stage, evolved to a higher level of "aesthetic", "identity symbol" stage, that is Maslow's demand-level theory called "self-realization" stage. All the starting point of modern fashion, all from this "useless", just as a white shirt, only because it is "white", it will be people have been wearing, this is the human costume culture evolved to a higher level of performance.

In the old mouth, this connotation is roughly understood as "white shirt, in the fashion industry status is very high", leaving the impression that "wearing white shirt itself is very fashionable." If the first reference is a translation error, then this quote can only be said to be deliberately misinterpreted, to exaggerate the fashion value of a white shirt itself.

As for the old irony Lagerfeld, and then the master of the teachings moved out, we are more puzzled: he is worship Lagerfeld, or despise Lagerfeld? Is this a rhetorical act of "seeking to raise the first?" or say Lagerfeld exactly what meaning does not matter, in order to speech effect, temporarily bring to use, bluff live audience can?

2. "Salute or slander?"

The fashionable brand, which is a big part of the second aging speech, is the American men's brand, Brooks brothers. There was a special tribute to the brand in the old speech, because they pioneered the "cotton-free" process.

"When we saw that Brooks Brothers flagship shirt, is today released this shirt with the same fabric, the same ironing process, and the minimum of 1600 yuan, we decided today to pay tribute to Brooks Brothers!"

At this point we can not help but also want to talk about Brooks brothers This brand, why a white shirt can be 1600 yuan to sell, is not only because of aging mentioned "no hot" process.

Old at the beginning of the press conference, said, face lei "Can we do a shirt?" The problem, he began to think Impassability:

"Every guest has made a 1000多万件 shirt in history, creating more than 1 billion of sales." What do you mean by making a shirt? It took us 3 months to understand it, and then we realized how hard it was to make a shirt and how hard it was to do a good job. "

And what we have to tell you: Brooks brothers, the Native American brand, was founded in 1818. "The question of how hard it is to make a shirt and how difficult it is to do a shirt," it took 3 months for the customer to understand, and Brooks brothers had spent 196 years. In the past 200 years, the brand sold shirts, created sales, service celebrities, probably also "around the earth N circle." In this brand accumulation and culture before, the old mouth of "every guest has made a 1000多万件 shirt in history, creating more than 1 billion of sales." "It looks so frog in the ...

Not to mention the anecdotes of Kennedy, the Duke of Windsor, and the brand, for example, which has been well known recently. All menswear in The Great Gatsby, which was released in 2013, was designed by Brooks brothers. The sharp clashes between the 1930 's "New Money" (the bourgeois upstart) and the "Old Money" (hereditary aristocracy, rich n generation) are intuitively embodied in the dramatis dressing. For example, "old money" on behalf of Tom in the banquet scene is wearing a two-row buckle tuxedo, was dignified and formal, while the little plum was dressed as a single-breasted, three-piece buckle--the Orthodox single-breasted tuxedo had only one buckle. These details, to the eyes of an outsider's gleaming Gatsby, to the Ivy-graduating hereditary nobleman Tom, are a well-dressed upstart who "never becomes US".

On the eve of the film, Brooks Brothers also introduced a limited series of The Great Gatsby Collection to reproduce the 1930-year-old men's retro style. The 1974 Gatsby Film edition of the men's fashion designer, is still unknown Lauren (Ralph Lauren). Coincidentally, Lauren was a salesman for Brooks brothers before his debut. The 2013 version of the memorable women's clothing are Prada joint designer Catherine Martin, jewelry is the famous tiffany--every prominent brand behind, there are a series of such stories to say.

Speaking of which, do you still think that the best tribute to Brooks Brothers is the "World's first art-free technology"? Do you think it's incomprehensible to spend 1600 dollars on a genuine "little plum" shirt?

It is shocking that the next mouth, the beginning of a turn, began to emphasize the quality of the 129-dollar shirt, "more than a crack thousand shirts." This makes people confused about the "salute" that preceded it.

“...... The Japanese, despite their westernized shirts and suits, are more fit than the Chinese. When I got home, I took my shirt, boss's shirt, Armani's shirt and put it out again, which is not for me. ”

We'd like to know if every guest's shirt comes out, Chen has already put in the home closet these "not for me to do", "is where the passenger finished the explosion", "thousand Yuan Above", the BOSS, Armani all threw, all changed to the van, after all only to wear van guest?

3, "When Fank said design, what it said"

Suddenly one day, "Internet thinking" enterprises, products and services, are beginning to emphasize the "design." and any emphasis on "design" will be sacrificed to some European and American masters. Pay tribute to the United States brand, aging began to say that the design: "Do mobile phones, have a big talk about design." Do not talk about the design of the line?

Aged this sacrifice, German industrial designer Dieter Rams. Coincidentally, we know that the office in addition to fashion magazines, catalogs, but also design monographs. Open this thick up to more than 800 pages of "Pager and more:the design ethos of Dieter Rams" works, are razor, jukebox and other household small electrical appliances. This person's classic design, is his 1955 to 1995 to Bleum (Braun) design of electrical products, lines concise, with color generous, very early abandoned the superfluous decoration, take the lead with concise and clear lines to show product appearance, today's Japanese industrial design and Apple products are deeply affected by it ...

Wait, is this a half-dime relationship to costume design?

Last time a clothing brand said: "Our clothing design concept from industrial design" is when? When did the principle of industrial design apply to costume design? Or, what famous International Costume Design Institute: Central St. Martin of London, Royal College of Art Antwerp, IFA Paris, New York Parsons School of Design, began to invite industrial design masters to teach fashion design, using industrial design theory to guide fashion design?

Chen always this under the flicker is not light, directly to Rams summed up his work "Design 10 principle" end out, and clever from 10 pick a "good design let product easy to use" to guide their design ideas.

Then, the most classic came, where the customer claimed that their design philosophy is:

"The relationship between clothing and the body", um ... This is just learning to write the pupil said: "Writing, is the pen and paper relationship." "The same, is a sentence of what just right nonsense!" It is correct, but does not express any meaning.

In the field of fashion design, designers are held up so high, become the target of competition for major brands, and their perennial training related. Designers, not "Seihan", not "tailor", more than craftsmen, not what the guests please come to "do 27 years shirt Japanese Gis." The pressure that an international top brand fashion designer faces is perennial to design a year of spring and summer, autumn and winter two, across Milan, Paris, London, New York, the world's four major fashion conferences, and sometimes vacation money, high fixed line, is in the fashion design into the artistic inspiration and brand culture, is in the inheritance of innovation; is to use costumes to change people's lifestyles and even ideas.

When the global fashion industry has reached this point, when the "comfortable and good to wear" is known as the Uniqlo all hit the money on the U.S. Vogue magazine plane ads, the Earth also has a clothing brand, in with everyone said: We think the clothes to use, to deal with clothing and physical relations ...

Sorry, I really do not see the "Internet thinking to make a shirt" of the "subversion", I only saw the "fearless of ignorance" and "take boredom as fun."

4. "Who is low?"

Finally came to this most exciting part:

"Low", this formulation is very fashionable, very Chic, very consistent with our group of "fashion essence" mantra. As Fank's employees worry about, "are we wearing them low?" Visible, the staff is common sense: a brand positioning, reflected in the target crowd, and the target group, the most mainly reflected in the price. Chen always this time the soul of chicken soup once again nourished the conviction of small partners.

"Only low shirts wear low," he said. Why is it so low when we have a good shirt?

Let's tell you a little story.

ASOS is a British fashion electric dealer, featuring half of the designer's brand and half its own. Self-brand Cheap pro-people, while the designer brand more personalized, higher price. Asos is "as dots on screen" abbreviation, in the mean is "movie with", "star Same", enough grounding gas? So Asos also by the fashion of the business district people jokingly dubbed as "British visitors." It's just the British who have made the Chinese visitors for 7 years did not fix things: They were founded in 2000, the 2001 on the market.

ASOS in 2008 to push a "bomb": three-piece suit, as long as 68 pounds (RMB 700). What's the concept? Refer to the British local big Burberry business suit three sets, the average price of more than 1200 pounds (RMB 20000). 2008 is a financial crisis, everyone tight pockets, young people wearing this cheap suit, you can go for a decent interview. You say, can not fire?

The irony is that once the interview is over, the British boys find a good job, the first thing is to take off the cheap suit and buy a burberry--why? Because ASOS is too low! "

Even if the British feel that low ASOS own brand, but also invited a professional fashion designer John Mooney sits. He graduated from the Royal College of Design and worked in the design team at Alexander McQueen (DA) (Guo) (za). Does the guest have a designer now? Is that the old Japanese tailor, Gis, who is known to have been blown out of the way?

This is what all the "cost-effective" products will inevitably face the consequences. They can meet a clear "just need" in a short time, and once the user's purchasing power rises, they will be discarded immediately.

Jane Austen said well: "Who would mind, get better?" I can't help but think of a joke.

"You use the millet mobile phone, wear every guest T-shirt, bubble beta coffee to listen to entrepreneurship lectures, home to see the Yale Open Class, know that the shell attention to countless, 36 krypton daily must read, Bat big pattern at hand, Zhangxiaolong greedy ignorant familiar." Meat folder steamed bun only eat West Master, about dinner to carve ye, like Luo than jobs, every person will talk about Internet thinking ... If all the above conditions are met, you should still squeeze the subway every day. ”

The truth behind this joke is that the overly hyped "internet thinking" seems to be passing positive energy, but it's all negative energy. Every guest as a clothing brand founded for 7 years, even in the indiscriminate use of industrial design of the "pragmatism" concept, but also "good" as the highest concept of clothing design, have to let people feel: you even feelings and dreams are sold so cheap, your users can get what? Meet the subway just need white shirt "In addition to help you" more professional subway "outside, there is no use.

It is hard to imagine what kind of life we can buy from people who wear them. We are surrounded by a lot of savings for a few months wages, overdraft credit card, to buy the so-called "luxury" of the young people, but was a "gold Digger", "Love vanity" of the tall hat. We can understand the precious sensibility in their hearts

We understand that every girl who buys "a goods" at three Li Tun, Hope one day to carry the authentic CHANEL Le Boy on the street; we understand that a Prada holiday-printed shirt can make you physically and mentally weary in the flames of a struggling conference room and take a short trip to the West Coast, and we understand that a Burberry's London map scarf, which allows you to apply for a British university, to fantasize about the rain and the Wind in Hyde Park; we understand that a bottle of Miyake perfume may represent the most familiar taste of someone, even if TA can't be around you, and we understand that you don't fit the lip color of YSL lipstick, But who let your favorite June in "You from the Stars" in the wipe is this paragraph; we understand that buying a pair of Christian Louboutin "red soles" high heels is your best reward, even if there is no occasion to wear at the end of the year ...

All this, and 129 yuan to let you worry-free subway of every white shirt, is so "not practical" Ah! and "practical" outside of these, those feelings, is not the beginner of fashion and home?

The reason is very simple, "Tiffany breakfast" with Danish crisp, in front of the window to linger over the reason Hepburn became an idol, is because: human is a kind of out of the dream is very difficult to live a healthy species. Fashion brand is classic, is that this feeling, the perfect sustenance in a piece of a single product, can be owned by anyone. And it is this emotion, like a lighthouse in mediocre tired life, always for you to illuminate the shape of the dream. A dress, if only "good to wear", it is not low?

Aging is right: "Only low shirts put people in low."

Every guest is such a shirt.

5. What do you wear?

From misreading and misinterpretation of the words of Lagerfeld, to the name of salute, the real slander hundred years old; To apply the concept of industrial design to the design of clothing, and finally hard to put "cost-effective" into the dream to create a proud fashion industry-all these, let us feel that old and his visitors, or really to the clothing industry is ignorant of the surprising Or the performance too hard, playing "cock Silk play Code" into the play too deep, difficult to extricate themselves.

"The awe--to the user, to the product, to the partner," he said in the opening ceremony. ”

We would like to add one: "to fashion."

It took 7 years to redefine smartphones from Apple's first IPhone 2007 release. Millet to do mobile phone is 2011, the difference is only 4 years-in the smart phone such a high level of homogeneity of the field, millet can do today's achievements, we will praise, but not difficult to understand.

Brooks Brothers make shirts since 1818, every customer to make a shirt from 2007, a whole 189 years difference! We do not understand, a "fear of the Heart" brand, how would feel that they spend 3 months to develop a shirt, can be 129 yuan "price butcher" across this 189 years of Gap, "end of the explosion" thousand yuan shirt? Not to mention the apparel industry is not a "Moore's Law", the brand value orientation of highly dispersed, diversified style, but the emphasis on brand personality and connotation of the industry.

We believe that the move, far from killing thousands of dollars or more shirts, instead a little "brandished from the palace" embarrassment, let originally in the first two years "where the object" prevalence of how many accumulated a bit of the brand spirit thickness of the van, become rough, empty, quick success, can only give people leave "no hot" so withered and uninteresting impression.

Wilde said well: "Cynics, only know the price of everything, but do not know the slightest value." "(A cynic is a mans who knows the price of modifiable and the value of nothing.)

"What's the best thing about a shirt?" he said at the beginning of the conference. Yes, in fact, you said directly to avoid ironing white shirts, only sell 129 yuan, this is enough. If you are willing to talk about the fashion attitude of every guest, tell us what Chinese people should wear today, to do their own "Chinese Dream", we may also be interested to listen. But what we hear is: "Xinjiang's cotton-fiber, American-branded craft, British neckline details, European big-name accessories suppliers, the concept of German industrial designers, the Japanese senior craftsmen in charge ..." This long series of confusing concepts is rigidly condensed into a "UN basterds" white shirt, paradoxical and ludicrous.

We have to say, if you have a reverence for the fashion industry, you should respect the fashion industry hundred years to precipitate the value of law; It should be understood that clothing brand is the most attractive to people is never the price, but "in your clothes, I will become a kind of person"; If you really care about the people who are going north to the deep and crowded subway, You're not going to just tell them: "Keep on the subway, and remember to squeeze in our ironing-free white shirt!" If you are really reshaping a people can expect the guests, you will not toss and turn only to say "easy to use", "no hot", but to leave a huge brand connotation blank.

This era, the fashion industry for people's meaning, has become "what you wear, is what." This is the same old saying: "Who you want to be, you dress like him." But in addition to the self-image, it extends the spiritual sustenance and self-realization. Maslow's theory of demand hierarchy is outdated, his old people to live to today, see all kinds of consumerism tide of people's mind washing, may put the demand pyramid inverted: "Human self-realization" is today's most basic needs. Can satisfy people this kind of emotion appeal brand and product, is the real "good shirt".

In our eyes, every guest this pretentious white shirt, is not so much to meet the just need to "burst money", rather than imprisoned cock silk identity "prison clothing." The more boast of the old press conference, the more let us think he is in the self-deprecating humor: every guest's everything, and good shirt has nothing to do with good design, and fashion has nothing to do.

The "luxury" of a fashion brand is never because of its price, but because of the value it carries, the inspiration it brings to your life, and the way it exports your spiritual maze. Because of this commendable, so it "luxury." And people's life, if not this "luxury" accompanied, why go to talk about what ideals, what feelings.

The editorial department wrote this text, the purpose is simple and pure, is to tell you, in the end what is a "good shirt." We want to put the fashion concept of true positive energy, without exaggeration to convey to you, so that you are closer to the fashion!