Alone Nujiang (2)

~ September 29 ~

As planned, I still need to take a half-day tour during the day to take over the night trip last night. It took one night from Kunming to luku, state government, Nujiang Autonomous Prefecture. At 06:10 in the morning, when there was no bright sky, the car drove into the liuku Passenger Station. Before I got off the bus, the driver said hello to the passenger station and said that I went to Bingzhongluo, then I was guided by a very polite staff to get a shuttle bus to Bingzhongluo all day and drive at 06:20. Good. It's a rare trip. If you are lucky, you will be able to arrive at the end of the cement road at around noon, in the town of Bingzhongluo.

The car was quickly opened, and I had no time to identify the appearance of the six databases. It disappeared into the darkness behind the car. The road conditions gradually deteriorated along the north of Nujiang River, and people were shaking in the bus. After dawn, we can see that the car is constantly passing through some collapsed areas, and the roads are washed down by rain. Road Administration Workers use bulldozers to flatten the road surface and then open to traffic. The road in Yunnan is probably like this. Landslides and rocks have not heard of any place in the province. Basically, all long-distance tickets can have additional insurance fees. It is estimated that there were many accidents in the past. I am not worried. It is enough for people who like to walk around and do well in their ability to guard against the attacks. Let's take care of the unpredictable external dangerous factors.

At in the afternoon, the car turned around in an open-minded L-shaped position. I saw the proc center Luo vision outside the window-a small town surrounded by large rice fields. This is the picture shown in the photo printed on the ticket to enter the site of Bingzhongluo. A few minutes later, when I arrived at my destination, I got out of the bus and sorted out my bags that had been bumpy for a long time. By the way, I took out my hats and sunscreen. When preparing to get started, I heard a male with a Hunan accent greeting "Hello !" I turned my head and found a man and a girl. They are dressed in dry trousers and carrying a trekking pole. They are a standard hiking outfit. The man said with a sigh of joy, "are you walking in Nujiang? We saw our backpackers for the first time in the past two days !" He looks a little excited, just like a ship sinking on an isolated island. I'm busy saying yes. I just got here, and I'm planning to go to chongding village. "What about you two ?" I also asked, and took a quick look up and down. "We arrived here yesterday. Now we are going to visit puhua Temple. Where are you going to live ?" I replied, "I live in a farmhouse in chongding village, like my Aunt Ding's ......" Before he finished speaking, he said, "ding Dama is so expensive and has a bad attitude !" I said, oh, yes, I have heard of it ......

On the streets of Guangzhou, such conversations must come from scammers and Children Care. In Bingzhongluo, two sweaty walkers say that the credibility is unquestionable. As a matter of fact, I have already found many whispers to ding Dama in some travel notes. The so-called Ding Dama is a Tibetan woman who opens a family hotel in chongding village. She was promoted by the online education because she began to entertain backpackers many years ago. But later, some friends complained that her family's charges began to increase, and that eating and ordering was even more open to the lions. So I immediately shouted. The network can carry boat, but it can also ride boat. At the same time, it also makes people feel that human nature is easy to change in the face of interests. Both Chinese and pure ethnic minorities are the same ......

After saying goodbye to them, I stepped onto the small road to the village of heavy ding. Don't underestimate this road, but it can go straight to the "bingcha road" in Tibet ". Although the roads are surrounded by small stones and are not smooth in many places, it can be seen that this is a road built by a large number of manpower, rather than a path built on by people. This "semi-formal" road also exists in many remote areas I have been. It is said that road building can drive the economy. In fact, the more common situation is that the local economic potential determines the quality of the road.

(Can always go to the country road in Tibet. I walked along it to chongding village, with golden rice on both sides .)

The sun is a little fierce, but the advantage is that the sun around the rice is more Golden. Bingzhongluo was once one of the four locations in China for the title of "Shangri-La". I think it is the most powerful competitive capital to open large rice fields on the edge of the Nujiang Canyon. Later, this title was taken away by Zhongdian, a little helpless. Rice Fields do not care about this. As always, they become yellow in the early autumn, and show lingering warmth in the sun. Unlike rice fields in the plain area, it is not like the terraces of longsheng, occupying all the hills. The rice field here seems to be sacred in the religious sense. Looking at the past from a distance, there were ten mountains around, rolling through the Nov River, and the rice field sleeping in the canyon in a quiet manner-a leisurely sight of the world.

(Rice fields before harvest are everywhere. The Nujiang River flows below the hill to nourish the land .)

I don't feel tired when the road hovers in the rice field. The eyes always look around, as if they were afraid of missing something. After a stone bridge, there is a clear Creek under the bridge, and the streams are not far from the Nujiang River. The Nujiang River is composed of countless streams. The color of xishui is green, while the Nujiang water at this time is muddy gray. Why? I don't know. It's probably caused by debris flows along the coast.

In less than an hour, he entered the chongding village. Some houses are distributed in the village. The villagers who are busy with farm work or household chores are not surprised by my big backpack image. They just have to look at it one or two more times. Well, go to Liu jilang's house first. Liu Jiliang is a villager who has received tourists in recent years and his relatives Liu Jian. The two are also Tibetans. It is estimated that the Chinese names are used for convenience of communication. The men and women also told me that they lived in Liu Jiliang's house and taught me how to find them. According to the guidance, I asked the villagers a little bit and soon came to a spacious cement floor with a two-tier house in front of him. There was a man chatting with three women, and I went over.

"Is Liu Jiliang's house here ?"
"Liu Ji-liang's house is opposite. I'm Liu Ji-."
"Oh ......"

I looked back at Liu Jiliang's house with his fingers. There was no movement and no one seemed to be at home.

"Do they seem to have no one at home ?"
"It may be out. He is my uncle. I can also live here ."
"How much is one night here ?"
"15 yuan ."
"Oh! Let me stay with you. I am alone ."
"Well, you can D !" ("Yes, D !" It is the Tibetan here to express "OK !" In the beginning, I still had some inconveniences. Later I heard more, and I felt a friendly tone in it .)

This solves the issue of living on this day. When I heard about the price of 15 yuan, I even dismissed the idea of checking whether the bed was clean or not. According to the data, the village's public price is 20 yuan a bed. Liu still offered me a discount below the public price a few days before the busiest days. This honest and refreshing personality is amazing. Anyway, I have a sleeping bag and a moisture pad. If the bed is not clean, it will not be a big deal. What else do I have to worry about? Later, I went to the room and saw that I had a double bed! The cleanliness is quite good in rural areas and acceptable. With a good impression, I later called Liu ji'an "Liu eldest brother. Some people say it's good. They live in his house and feel like they have a home. Later, Liu told me that the two from Hunan also lived here. They used to confuse "Liu Jiliang" with "Liu Jian.

(Double bed arranged for me by Aunt Liu, the wife of the boss. Double bed price for single person, well, it's really a good guy ~)

Place the outfit and pick up the camera to go around. I think many things of Tibetan farmers are extremely fresh. The differences between rural areas and cities, Chinese people and Tibetan people are curious. I saw the three children of Eldest Brother Liu in the yard. What are they eating? I walked over and asked them what they answered. Fortunately, Aunt Liu came out of the house and told me that they were eating corn poles. Can I eat a corn pole? How can I lose my share of what the world can eat? So I also picked up one from the corncob heap that fed the cattle and learned how to dig out the outer skin like the children, revealing the white rod core inside and biting it. Well, it's sweet! It's just a taste of sugar cane, and you don't need to spit it out!

(Three children and corn poles)

After eating, think about the three of them, they are also very poor. If there are no other snacks at ordinary times, they just chew on the corn pole. I may not feel anything when I try it. If I treat it as a daily snack, I certainly don't want ...... With this thinking, we can find three sugar from our pockets and give them one sugar for each person. The three little guys picked it up with embarrassment, and then they were very happy to eat it.

In the yard, we can see that Liu's family is drying a granular crop seed with zookeeper. It's not what I know. So I asked Liu daxie what it was, and she said that this was the raw material for making slate shards. Oh, it's slate. I know that many people say that when they come to Nujiang, they must have a taste of slate. It turns out they are made of these small particles.

(Raw materials used for Slate compaction)

If it's not too late, just stay away. Passing by a cornfield, I felt that the color was quite good. I secretly ran in, took out a tripod, and gave myself a selfie. Haha!

(Cornmeal selfie. Shot at the elevation of angle, a little mighty, click it !)

At dinner, I asked Liu daxie about the price of the chicken and asked him about the price of 20 yuan. Well, it's cheap. Ask her if she only needs half a chicken, and it's a kilo of money. She said, "Yes, D !" Wow, I am so happy to die ~ The chickens in the Nujiang Canyon Region are famous for their proximity. I tried to search for information. Later, I heard people say that the chicken on the side of my Aunt Ding is very expensive, so I was a little worried that I would not be willing to eat it. I did not expect that I have met 20 RMB and a half (more than a kilo). It is a pleasure!

After ordering food, you can sit at the dinner table and wait. The two tourists are also there, so they can talk with them. Originally they were a couple, from Chenzhou, with the male surnamed Hu. He said that their plan was just to set the bucket of Party C, Party C, and Party A. They wanted to go to Dulong River. I told him that I was just planning to move around here. I couldn't go too far away, so I wanted to stay away. In words, I noticed some loving expressions and tone between them. Well, an eye-catching pair ~

Soon, the food was served, and the stew of chicken with a full bowl of dishes was very satisfying. Pick up a few pieces of chicken, bite it down, full of tenacity, rich chicken flavor, it is really a real chicken! The soup is also very delicious. It seems that the stew was made with herbs such as sanqi. Incredible! I opened my stomach and soon wiped out the half chicken.

(Delicious chicken stew)

In addition, I also tasted the slate. This is a traditional staple food in Nujiang, where many ethnic minorities like it. In fact, the practice is also very simple, that is, the grains I saw in the afternoon are ground into powder, mixed with water into a paste, and then poured into the hot slate on both sides of the baked, can eat. If the taste is good, it is quite common and there is nothing amazing. However, since it is a staple food, it is inevitable. In general, I think it is better than the region made by Xinjiang people.

(Slate worker)

After dinner at, nothing else can be done. Most rural people live in this way. After one day of farm work, there is no entertainment. Enter Liu's "living room", where there is a firepond. Big Brother Liu, sister-in-law Liu, Father Liu, and others are all sitting and chatting. I sat down and wanted to hear them speak as a listener. Of course, in fact, I cannot understand it. They speak Tibetan. But when he saw me, he chatted with me. I told him about my planned itinerary and asked him about the routes of scenic spots near Bingzhongluo. He answered my questions in detail and told me that, in fact, there are two pastures in the southwest of Bingzhongluo, where the scenery is very magnificent. There are also two mysterious Blackwater lakes near the farm. Any loud sound can make the lake boil, and the local people and animals do not dare to approach. If you want to walk there, it will take one day and one night one way ......

Attractive attraction information! Tibetan pastures have always been famous for their magnificent scenery. What's more, they are still unknown. It is a pity that a one-day and one-night flight means you have to bring a tent to your work. Brother Liu already said he could guide me, but I didn't bring a tent. Then we can only stay for the foreseeable future ~

(Basically all the cooking utensils of Liu Jia are black .)

We talked a lot about things that night, basically around the scenery, play, eat and drink ...... It was a pleasant night. From this chat, I began to experience a completely different journey experience. No matter whether it is long distance or short distance, whether in a hurry or leisurely manner, as travelers, we are just passers-by. Our eyes cannot see countless scenes, and our cameras cannot penetrate the human body. The only way to truly integrate your mind and body into the landscape is to have a long chat with people who have lived with us for thousands of years. Isn't the pleasure of playing here exactly? In addition to taking away photos, I would like to take away stories.

I had to go back to the room when my house was about to go to bed. Ignition of mosquito repellent incense, when the insects honestly kneel down, turn off the lights to go to bed. In an instant, there was no light at all, and there was only sand and insects in the sound. At the beginning, I was worried that I could not go to bed too early. The first night of the silence beside the Nujiang river is full of sleep.