An appreciation of the old building of Kongfu in the Ming Dynasty's Red Lake silk bullshirt

Details of the bullshirt details

Li lujian

The essence is the beauty of the Service chapter ". The "Jin Zhi mingyun" part of the "Dayu Huayu-Ming and Qing dynasties clothing Special Exhibition" exhibited by the Shandong Museum in May 2013 presents the Ming Dynasty clothing crown of the first famous family in China's history-kong Fu Chuan Shi. The distinguished and colorful costumes all reflect the extraordinary charm of the Chinese family Wei Yi, among which a very precious red lake silk bullfight gown is particularly dazzling.

This bullfighting gown has a length of 120 cm, a waist width of 59 cm, a sleeve length of 213 cm, and a sleeve width of 63 cm. Make a shape for the round neck, right side, large fly, wide sleeves, left and right pendulum, a pair of red straps under the armpit. The bullfight robe is made of fine Lake silk. Lake silk is the silk produced by Huzhou, Zhejiang Province. It has a long history and exquisite workmanship. during the Spring and Autumn Period, Huzhou produced "yueluo", which has already possessed superb weaving techniques. Wu Yi, produced by Huzhou in the Three Kingdoms, is named "Wu Yi Shu Jin" in the same name as Shu Jin ". Huzhou silk was honored as Kyoto in the time of Tang Dynasty. Together with silk, silk, yarn, cotton, and Earth-produced flower silk, nagong was awarded the finest tribute in the Ming Dynasty.

The Bullfighting robe uses "auspicious birds and animals" as auspicious decorative pattern, exquisite exception. The front chest and back of the robe are embroidered with a golden wire and colored silk lines to produce two dragons and shoes (also called bullfights) at the beginning and end. It is the largest Decoration of the embroidery surface in the whole dress; the middle section of the robe (knee? On the front and back of each of the above two relatively dancing bullfighting, the most hem is exquisite embroidered patterns; the front of the robe sleeves each decorated with a flying colorful Phoenix, colorful Phoenix Wings are embroidered with two to three dizzy clothing lines, and the back of the sleeves are embroidered with different thorns. Whether it's a big Bullfight or colorful Phoenix, it's decorated with auspicious clouds. The embroidery workers of the whole Jifu gown are exquisite and colorful. They fully reflect the spectacular and elegant features of the Ming Dynasty.

The pattern of any clothing is not simply an application of technical means, but more or less contains cultural connotations. They are often a comprehensive reflection of social consciousness such as values and aesthetics in specific periods. People usually compare some beautiful birds with beautiful birds to "beautiful" for female decoration, and compare some vigorous beasts to "Mighty" for men's clothing patterns. This style will be inherited and developed by generations in the future. In the name of a bullfighting dress, a bullfighting dress is not a ox-like, but an imaginary beast. The Bullfighting system was originally used to host the bucket and the ox, and then became a reanimal like a dragon. In some legends, bullfighting is also called a kind of Tornado. For example, there is a tornado in the sea in the west, that is, the tornado, and so on, beside the winding road and above Jingyu building. ...... As you can see, the lake ice breaks down and goes vertical ." In this case, the bullfighting is said to be a kind of rain things to eliminate disasters. In the Ming Dynasty, bullfights were generally cool-shaped, four-claw (five-claw upon the arrival of the Late Ming Dynasty), and the fish's tail. The heads were bent down like horns. Zhou Qi's "name test" records the bullfights "like a dragon? Corner ",? The angle is the angle composing, and again like a bow? Style, different from the angle of Dragon and python. The bullfighting in the dress of the Red Lake silk is different. Its horns are slightly straight and not curved. It is almost the same as that in the late Ming Dynasty, and the bullfighting is a bull's hoof, non-four-claw. It has always been seen in not only costumes, but also in ancient architectural decoration. For example, there is a bullfighting animal in the back of Taihe temple in the Palace Museum. The first animal is not in the shape of a python, and the scales are everywhere. The tail is similar to the unicorn tail. The form of bullfighting is similar to that of Qilin, but it is quite different from that of Qilin. Qilin is dominated by deer characteristics and integrates the features of antlers, Ox bodies, and horse hands. What is the bullfighting in the red silk Gex gown? A collection of horns, leaders, dragons, Fish tails, and ox's trotters. As a beast like a dragon and a non-Dragon, a bullfighting means that everything in the world is in harmony and integrated thoughts. It also represents the secular auspicious ideas such as Ruyi and fushou Fugui. The colorful Phoenix embroidered by the two sleeves of the bullfighting robe is the same as that of the bullfighting, and it is also a combination of reality and imagination. Like the frequently-used phoenix pattern in the Ming Dynasty, the color on the robe is like a rooster, the Crown is like a good luck, the head is like a cloud, the wings and legs are like a crane, the whole shape is like a peacock, colorful, elegant. As an auspicious decorative pattern, Phoenix is also seen as a symbol of benevolent morality and peaceful world. It is the embodiment of good fortune, happiness, and beauty. Since ancient times, the stainless steel chimney has been built. In this Gex gown, the transformed dragon-shaped bullfights and the colorful Phoenix have also become another combination. In addition, the comprehensive grafting structure of the bullfights and the colorful Phoenix reflects the great changes, the benefit of all things, the wealth of wealth, and the endless growth of children and grandchildren. Xiang Wu Rui is a kind of Qi Ji psychology. Since ancient times, Chinese people have been pursuing auspicious and happy lifestyles in their traditional ideas and consciousness. These Auspicious Patterns not only pin the aspirations of the rulers, it has also pinned on the noble pursuit of a distinguished and beautiful life. It is also inspired by the ancient and traditional national psychological consciousness, philosophical thoughts, and aesthetic ideas in the hierarchy, it embodies the eternal spiritual connotation and national spirit of the great nation.

This bid belongs to the Ming dynasty. It has a long history. In ancient times, it was a clothing designed for sacrifices. It was also called a gift. Zhou Li? Chun Guan? The "server" is recorded as follows: "The King's good server, the God of heaven, is the king of the universe, and the Five Emperors are also like this ." Later on, some officials wore the Gex to go to the DPRK? Emperor an Ji "cloud:" The Emperor's Queen Yu chongde Hall, and the hundreds of officials are good servers ." However, in the Ming Dynasty, gefu did not enter the system, but often appeared in various types of administrative books and literature. Ruiming Shen defu's "Wild? Division 2? In the royal Shi fangboxiang ", there is a record of the Gex:" Wang Fen boxing, Gu can not win, Yu guanchi band, with the Gex and hovering in the ground ." In the Ming Dynasty, Gex refers to general dresses, which are usually used for seasonal festivals, birthdates, weddings, and other auspicious occasions. China's law of Rites attaches great importance to the use of Kyrgyzstan and clothing. It can be seen that clothing culture is closely related to both material and spiritual life. In the Ming Dynasty, there were a wide variety of Gex styles, including round neck, straight body, drag and paste. The decorative patterns included Yun shoulders, sleeves, and knees? . The color of the Gex uses festive colors, and the decoration is more gorgeous and exquisite. The designs include the anchor, flying fish, bullfighting, unicorn, and other auspicious birds and animals.

In? In "ID 3", the author states: "How can I find? Chen honghong? Siro yarn. Its color suit, a product bullfight, and two products flying fish ." This record originated from June 13 (1518), lunar January, where mingwuzong was also in Beijing, and ordered wenwu officials to wear drag, big hats, and provide greetings to the heroes? Silk, Luo, yarn each, given the decorative level is not in accordance with the conventional operation, such as for a product bullfighting, two product flying fish, three product pythons, four products Qilin, five or six seven products tiger Biao and so on. From this we can see that the bullfighting pattern is one of the cultural patterns of the Ming Dynasty, and the cultural relics are a symbol of identity and status. As mentioned in "discretion": "(the supervisor of the ceremony) are all dressed in stickers, first bullfighting, and then sit on the anchor ." Pythons, flying fish, and bullfights look like dragons and are worn by people who are close to the emperor. Therefore, they are regarded as a rare honor, the emperor also often presents clothing and materials with advanced patterns such as Python, flying fish, bullfighting, and Qilin to the Minister of Arts and war, foreign kings, and tribal leaders. This frog gown is a great honor that the emperor of the Ming Dynasty has granted to the government of Yansheng.

In the Ming Dynasty, the clothing culture of the Ming dynasty had a strong feudal level, and there were strict identity restrictions on gifts and clothing. The anchor, flying fish, and bullfighting patterns of the Ming Dynasty are banned. The ruling class is exclusive. Only the Emperor or Emperor gives them the power to use them. During the period of the Ming Dynasty's orthodox, tianshun, And Hong zhi, the Court had made it clear for many times that the official clothes should not use pythons, flying fish, bullfights, and other patterns. Anyone with banned styles such as woven and embroidered pythons, flying fish, and bullfights, craftsman chopped, the mouth of the family sent a side guard to complete the army, wearing people, serious crimes do not commit. However, in the middle and late Ming Dynasties, costumes gradually become more and more popular, which is often seen in the literature. "Old Beijing heritage" records: "or there is a celebration, women take a big sedan chair, wearing a big red anchor, luxury, but single from, bu is a municipal commission. There is no difference in the level of superiority and inferiority, and there is a loss of wealth and effort, and wealth cannot be paid ." The "made by Wanli ye" also mentioned that the special server granted by the Minister was also used by the people: "(inner officials) Those who are gentle at the inner's home in Beijing may be cool, like a bullfighting clothing, called a grass beast, Jin Bi Huang Mu, whip Changan road, no one dared to ask. As for Wang Fu's inheritance, he will give the flying fish a message without having to say anything. That is, he has not been given a gift, and he has also been swallowed up by yundun and sent to a banquet far away ...... When the woman goes out, Mo does not wear a beaded hoop, his body is embroidered, and everything is white Ze, Qilin, flying fish, sitting pythons ." By the end of the Ming Dynasty, the wind has reached its peak. Except for the Emperor's dragon robe, no one dared to give the Emperor an easy-to-use suit. All other costumes have broken the boundaries of dignity and elegance, the rise of the ban forms a surging trend that cannot be blocked by any force. The appearance of these costumes makes beautiful and vivid designs that have long been accumulated in the hearts of ancient Chinese people for peace and pray for fidelity, express their sustenance and feelings as needed.

In addition to the bullfight robe, The Gex of the Ming Dynasty Yansheng mansion on display also contains the fragrant Luo color embroidered Python robe, Blue Lake crepe Qilin fill female shorts, and the green onion green makeup huaxiao skirt. Walking around for several hundred years, talking about the true dress and clothing of hundreds of years. Looking at the content of Chinese culture, there will be no difference between the sleeves, and we will explore, taste, and interpret it ......

Author: Li lujian

Photography: Zhou Kun

An appreciation of the old building of Kongfu in the Ming Dynasty's Red Lake silk bullshirt