[Post] Shi binpai Mobile Robot-robot production tutorial

Http://www.robotsky.com Source: roboticfan.com time:

1

I have introduced a lot of basic knowledge, such as what drives, sensors, and even some messy algorithms. However, those seem to be too theoretical. We know that we urgently need some detailed robot production tutorials. Starting from today, we will publish a series of articles to introduce in detail how to create a mobile robot from scratch. With a rich array of images, we believe it will help many interested enthusiasts to create their own robots. Good stuff for everyone to share! The following figure shows the final form of the robot, but it is a bit cool to handle it for now!

Preface

This article will be a great achievement for those who are interested in understanding and learning how to assemble the robot pedestal. We hope to give our friends a comprehensive understanding of the ins and outs of robot manufacturing through illustrated articles. The pedestal of the robot is made up of alloy, wheels produced by R/C toy companies, and casters distributed all over the world. Of course, some of these components should be made by yourself. The preferences of cars and drivers are often different, because some cars are bought from the bus, while others are carefully modified by enthusiasts. This article only involves the basic architecture. The image contains text instructions, which may help readers.

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Part 1: assembly base

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First (), cut two metal strips (296 long) with a size of 50mm x 25mm and a U shape horizontal plane) and two 30mm x 25mm angle alloy strips (300mm long)-L-shaped metal strips for short. Then marks the front and back sides of the two U-shaped metal rods. The height of the metal strip from the ground depends on the diameter of the wheel. Drill a 10mm diameter hole on the two metal plates as the bearing of the robot (of course, the hole size depends on the actual situation ). In the image, the base bearing F/B belongs to a relatively light level (you can use a Spherical Slip bearing, so that the external rim can be easily placed on the alloy ), such Bearings must match an axis of approximately 6mm in diameter.

Next, in order to ensure that the weight of the robot's body remains at a low level to ensure its flexibility in its activities, you must minimize the weight of the base. The method in the image is to punch holes (about 12mm in diameter) on the two metal plates of the bearing shaft, but note that the holes must be evenly distributed in the class during drilling. Once you mark the position in the class to be punched, a mechanical pliers may be useful. It can help you penetrate two pieces of metal during drilling, make the positions of the holes on both sides consistent to achieve the balance effect. After the successful execution, a common cutting knife is used to polish the edge of all the holes, mark the inside and outside of the corner metal strip, and select the intersection of the four metal plates. These steps are the initial sign to facilitate the next combination. Then use a steel saw to ignore the white embedded teeth on the ends of those axes, because they can prevent the axes from falling off. Finally, use a screw to connect these metal bars: place the L-shaped metal bars on the U-shaped metal bars (30mm of the panel down is consistent with the U-shaped metal bars ), in addition, each angle is fixed with two 5mm x 15mm screws and a 5mm nut respectively, so that the basic framework of the robot is formed.

 

Part 2: wheel assembly

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The pictures show the components used to assemble the wheels, including the headers with a diameter of 8mm loaded axle, F/B bushing, 5mm S/S axle, and 8mm pulley, washer spacings, etc. The 5mm S/s axis is engraved with 8mm of the bearing shaft threads. The latter is made of 8mm S/S steel, with a length of 60mm. One end is filled with a 4mm hole, and the other end is 4.5. Many parts are removed from old printers, alternating current generators, and used computers. In reality, some parts may be difficult to find the right ones, so you must use your brains to make them useless.

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Use a 5mm S/S screw and a 8mm axis to fix the wheel. Pay attention to the slot in the shaft.

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The wheel comes from an R/C toy jeep, removing the old axle and replacing it with a new metal strip.

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Axle clip

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The next step is to install the bearing on the base. The installation force must be moderate so that the tires can be updated in the future. Each side has a groove. Once the borehole is completed, the bearing shaft is fixed and it is stopped. the F/B bearing shaft in the figure was removed from the stuck tape of the old printer by the producer on April 9, 1980s, unless you have a way to find the same old antique, otherwise, we recommend that you find the bearing with flange to be more realistic.

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Looking at the wheel after installation
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Part 3: Motor Installation

Because of the difference between the drill hole and the bracket, the selection of the motor may be different from the diagram. The key is to adjust the orientation of the motor correctly. The 3mm small hole in the figure conforms to the motor bracket.

In the figure, the voltage of the gearbox with overlapping motors is 3, 6, 9, 12, and 15 volts. Different reliability measurements are therefore possible.
 
Unmount one of the transmission boxes to make screws suitable for Installation

The two motors have been installed.

Note how the metal plates in the figure link the two axes together.

 

Part 4: Installation wheel foot

These wheels are at the foundation. First, cut two Z-shaped Metal Blocks (20mm x 25mm x 20mm) and drill holes on them to install the axle and wheel feet, use two nuts and washers to adjust the height of the discussion pin during installation. Drill two more holes and tie two 20mm x 25mm x 20mm Metal Blocks to the base metal plate.

The two wheels have been installed and adjusted.

Outline

Relatively flat base-make sure that when the bottom plate receives a certain amount of pressure, the wheels at both ends can friction with the ground, but also ensure that the two wheels do not rotate due to pressure, they can only firmly grasp the ground to ensure normal walking.

 

Part 5: Installing the motor controller

The Hb 25 controller manufactured by Parallax can be used as a DC motor and a 12 V shunt electrical controller to drive the motor.

Cut four metal blocks of the size of 30mm x 25mm x 20mm as the supporting price. The producer in the figure uses four instead of two brackets, but is more flexible in installation.
 

Two controllers installed
 

Controller Overview
 

Note that the two blades under the Controller

 

Part 6: Installation of some electronic components

Compatible electronic board of BlueBell design. Its use greatly reduces the difficulty of BS2P-40 control motor. Infrared PD sensor and collision sensor are also included. There is a chip in it that controls the information output and A/D input of the servo system.
 

The cross metal support board is the base of the electronic board.

 

This is the final bottom plate so far. BS2P-40 has 32 I/O (input and output) ports. So far, only four 28i/O ports are used on the baseboard in the figure. The ultrasonic p-infrared sensor has two digital recorders, an electronic camera and an LCD display to be installed. Next, the bottom plate will have a glass ring made of resin to cover the top of the Bottom Plate and the collision sensor. The battery will be installed under this circle.

Aside from the time spent on installing electronic components, it takes the producer about a week to install the baseboard in the figure. Believe it or not. In terms of costs, including electronic components and electric motors, numerical glass top rings, a total of 640 RMB. Most of them are spent on resin glass rings. In addition, two 300mm disks (the second one tied to the alloy bottom plate and under the resin glass ring) cost nearly 320 RMB

 

Part 7: Preparation of plexiglass Bottom Plate

The tools you need to use in this part of work are: a wooden planer with 12mm straight slices, a rough saw or a vertical saw, an electric drill or a wireless drill.

20 perforated brass insulators needed

These are nuts and spring washers for inserting Metal Plates

Insulator distributed around the bottom plate can protect the base of the Plexiglass and the fixed circuit, while ensuring the stability of the base frame.

 

Next we need 400 mm² MDF (medium density fiber board ). Draw two diagonal lines to determine the center. After confirming the center, draw a circle with a diameter of 300mm on each piece of fiber board with a circular gauge, and then smooth the fiber board with a Disc Grinding Machine or hand. The template of a planer is formed. The center hole of the plexiglass plastic panel (400 mm²) and MDF under cutting makes the center hole of the former bigger than that of the latter, so that the two are tied together with screws.

The template is used as a guide for the planer to ensure its cleanliness.

Place the glass ring on the top of the inverted bottom plate and place it in the template to ensure its center. Only in this way can the edge of the bottom plate be consistent with the edge of the template, the plexiglass ring is just parallel to the external. Now place the twelve brass insulators mentioned above under the Organic Glass and mark them wherever they need to be drilled.

 

Use another MDF to make another 300 mm² Material

 

Finally, four such glass panels should be made.

Use a decorative belt to block the connecting edge and mark the twelve flat Interfaces
 

Drill four holes 3mm in diameter on the top of the top fabric with iron bands.

 

 

 

Other perforated insulators and screws required

Cut off the right screw cap, leave the remaining 12mm threads, and then place each two insulators into the thread

Now insert all insulators into the plexiglass panel
 

The final graph should be accurate

Part 8: Battery Installation

The display is a battery Bracket Made of aluminum alloy. The length varies with the battery used.

 

Shape after completion

 

Battery Holder top and bottom

It is always wise to use two maintenance-free batteries and motors to avoid two different electric volts. (TIPS: the control system and the drive circuit use different power supplies can effectively prevent "egg", that is, burning the circuit. )

Battery in place

The center has a hole that passes through the wire of the motor and the motor controller.

A 12-port connection line port connects all the connection lines of the motor, including fuses. Of course, the latter is invisible.

 

Part 9: Electronic Control centre (brain)

The system is basically a full set of professional development boards Using parallax. For detailed development documents, see (1 ). The price is about 1400 RMB.

Control Panel and Main Wiring

Main Interface connector
 
 

The red LED is a charging display, and the jack is certainly used to charge the battery.

Wiring Conversion Board and fuse view of Main Components

The rated power of the two main switches is 5 amps and the charging Jack of the chrome panel. The collision sensor, that is, eight miniature switches or five infrared sensors will be installed later.

Related links:

1) http://www.parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/boards/ParallaxPDB.PDF (PDF)

 

Part 10: Sensor Installation

You only need to install the front detector. The one-off infrared detector differs from the other five because it is installed on the compatible board.

These are all components used to hold detectors. Three black Lego interfaces and six short nails. The infrared light-emitting diode is completely integrated into the center hole, and the joint is completely consistent with the organic glass plates of both countries. Each panel has two holes (the interface cannot be loose ). Slide the connector on the plexiglass slice. Make it suitable for Lego nails to sneak into the top and bottom. Once this is installed, it will give you a rotation point, so that you can adjust the screen angle.

Connector

 
Installed Light Emitting Diode and infrared receiver

 

Part 1: Installing a miniature collision Sensor

Components of the miniature collision sensor. Sensors on the front, left, and right

Insert the shorter axle into the component in the figure

 

Triangle metal plate

 
Insert a longer axle into a triangular part

Infrared receiver

Place the entire Axle on a long axle to ensure its flexibility and freedom (this part is critical ).

The following steps are used to create an earthquake absorber. It is composed of a 25mm x 1.5mm alloy bar. The right hand bending makes it consistent with the shape of the organic glass plate and is streamlined to keep the appearance beautiful. Next is a very important step. After removing the Lego part, install the axle carefully with glue to link two triangular metal plates. Twist the nut to slip the screw back to its initial position.

 

Final installation effect

This is the display image after completion. Next you must ensure that the other three buffers can be correctly installed, and the four buffers of copper wire should be properly stored. For security considerations, you can also choose a micro-collision or distance sensor.

Correct installation of micro-Converter

 
Correct buffer placement

Parts required for the buffer (1)

Forwarding parts (2)
 

Accessories (2)
 

Shock Absorbers and Buffers

 
Both shock absorbers are installed in proper positions, which makes the buffer more flexible and stable.

Shock Absorption System visible at the bottom (18)