Skillfully use Lightroom to bring up the Japanese tone style photo

The hue of the Japanese system is widely accepted by the public because of its elegance and the characteristics of its extraction; there are many arguments about the Japanese photo, such as: low contrast, over exposure, the bright part of the cyan and the dark part of the warm orange, and so on, but sometimes in fact, the composition is still the most points, not too attached to the film to be expressed in the body full of layout, The main body of the photo is not the largest, but the first to attract or focus on the part of the eye.

Next we're going to step up the Japanese hue.

　(a) selection of a suitable photograph

First of all, choose such a photo which seems to be a failure of metering but the appropriate photo composition; don't be stingy with space for the sky!

　　(ii) Adjustment of exposure

To master the low contrast and bright features of the Japanese photos;

(1) I will be the exposure of +0.85: increase the exposure will make the picture as a whole regardless of the dark and bright part of the brightness of the value

(2) After the adjustment I found that the dark part is still insufficient, this photo was taken on a cloudy day so the building is still on the dark side, so I dramatically pull the shadow and black of the two options (Shadow +64, Black +59), the shadow in some software called the dark Part, which represents the middle of the following areas (that is, gray to black); Black is the part that is exposed to zero.

(3) I can see from the data that the light is pulling down! (Light 29) This is because after the first step of the exposure, the sky is too exposed, the details of the cloud will disappear, so I fix it back in this step so that the cloud can be retained.

(4) Lower the light, in order to keep the picture still fresh and translucent (not gray), I will be white again +21, because we are in the last low light step, also should be pure white area pulled down (such as the clouds of the central, lighthouse, etc.), now to make up.

　(iii) Adjustment of color

In the adjustment of color, can be divided into "split tone", "tonal curve (that is, RGB curve)" and "color", as to the first from what control will look at personal habits! My section starts with "split tone", followed by the "tonal curve" (ie, RGB curve) to fine-tune the color eventually.

(1) Split tones

Split tone is a very useful tool in the Lightroom, he can make the dark and bright part of the different color, and the area between the light dark gradient effect. This time I will be dark in favor of yellow-green, basically as long as the Yellow series on it! can be orange, yellow green and so on, depending on the color of the photo or personal preferences of different adjustments. This time the yellow-green was chosen because there are many places in the dark area are green trees, hope that the effect of natural.

(2) tonal curve (ie RGB curve)

The RGB curve is now only to regulate because its efficiency is not only in color, for brightness and contrast, etc. also have a good help.

A. First click on the RGB color version: After the step of the split tone, the screen is somewhat cloudy, we first fix the exposure; The RGB curve is used by setting the anchor point to pull up that is the exposure area to brighten, conversely, the dimming, compared to the first step of regulation (white, light, Shadow, black), RGB can control the finer degree, but also can be based on the composition of different or color after the difference to fine-tune.

B. Then click on the blue color version: A simple try and pull can be found, when you pull the anchor point to the lower right of the line, the screen turns yellow, and when you pull to the left, it's blue; we want the shaded area to be yellow, so we set anchor points and pull down the dark areas (usually the lower-left lines).

Tip: When pulling anchor points, you'll find that the entire line changes shape, and if you want to fine-tune the specific exposure area, set more anchor points at the upper and lower limits of the area.

Note: I can see from the diagram that I will also set the lighting of the anchor point and to the Oberra (blue), this is to wait for the bright part of the cyan to prepare.

C. Finally, the green color version: As simple as a try and pull can be found, pull the anchor point to the lower right of the line, the screen will become purple, pull the left when the green; what we want is a bright green, so I set the area of the light to the anchor point and pull up some more (note that just a little bit is enough), With just in the blue color version of the blue light, you can achieve a fresh green.

After applying a tonal curve

After adjusting the above steps, it will be more than half done! Then it is fine-tuned according to different colors:

(3) Color

What's more important in this picture

Blue: Hue-5 (in favor of blue-green), saturation +29, lightness +26

Red: Hue +42 (biased orange, Japanese hue is rarely red, replaced by the more engaging orange), saturation +6, lightness +6, the rest of the color regulation on the basis of personal preferences, such as green can make it blue-green (hue +32) and low saturation.

Tip: If the subject of the photo is a person, remember to increase the saturation of the orange; After the action of our exposure adjustment, the skin of the character may be pale and white, and the color of the orange will be filled with the red effect.

(4) Final regulation

Back to the basic regulation area, I'm going to make a final correction to the exposure and increase the brightness (freshness +21).

The difference between brightness and saturation is: saturation is the overall color of the Ascension and brightness is "selective" to let the picture less color increase, so often adjust the brightness of the natural.

Tip: In Japanese tones, low contrast, low saturation is the main axis, but more precisely, it is to close the distance of each color, so you can try to pull the low saturation (overall drop) and then significantly pull high brightness (the specific color rise), so that more to achieve a fresh feeling.

Note: This photo was initially photographed with a low saturation, so I not only lowered the saturation, but it increased (saturation +1)

(5) Contrast

Although the emphasis is low contrast, but I have not used to Lightroom in the "contrast" this regulation, my personal habit is to put this in the end, this is the last magic weapon! When you finally look at the photos, you may find that the contrast is too low! (or the contrast is still low enough), we can use this option to do the final processing, in this case I make comparison +53.

Postscript:

There are many tools in the Lightroom that complement each other, for example, exposure can be adjusted by a preset regulation key (white, light, shadow, black, contrast, etc.) or an RGB curve, and the same effect may come from different data; This post-produced article spindle is the process of sharing my personal drawings, In fact, there are quite a lot of places are trivial, and even some superfluous, but hope to be able to share with you the process of the revision and thinking, not only the results.