Tips and suggestions for photography

1. Keep the camera stable
Those who just learned to take a photo often encounter blurred pictures. This is caused by the shaking of the camera. Therefore, avoid shaking the camera during shooting. Generally, the left side of the VM is used to hold the elbow in the chest or hold the body * with a stable object. You must add a tripod to a telephoto. The method of pressing the shutter should be stable and gentle, and the whole person should relax. After adjusting the breathing, the screen will be seed for shooting. You can use a sitting posture or one knee to hold the camera at a low viewpoint to enhance stability.
2. Keep the sun behind you
Photography is a perfect combination of light and shadows. When shooting, you need to have enough light to reach the subject. The simplest way is to keep the sun behind you with a certain offset. Light can illuminate the subject to make its color and shadow brighter. A slight offset can produce shadows to show the texture and stereoscopy of the object. However, it should be noted that you do not need to let your shadow into the screen during the scenario.
3. Select shooting styles
Different camera grip methods (vertical or horizontal) have different image effects. Vertical photos can emphasize the height of the subject (such as the Forest), while horizontal photography can emphasize the width of the subject (such as the continuous mountains ). But when shooting with a pocket camera, be careful not to block the flashlight with your fingers.
Iv. Change shooting style
You should constantly try new shooting methods or sentiment during shooting. Otherwise, you will feel the same if you look too much. Personal shooting is very random. You can take pictures wherever you like. If you think the picture is interesting or meaningful, you can play it freely. For example, you can take close-up photos of some people, panoramic images, and the same scenario in different climate.
5. Narrow shooting distance
Sometimes, it is not necessary to take all people or things and emphasize a special place of the scene, but it will have a strong visual impact. You only need to be close to the object to get a better effect than shooting remotely.
Vi. Enhancing the visual effect of depth of field
Depth of field is very important for shooting. Every photographer does not want his or her photos to have no stereoscopic effect, and it looks like a plane. Therefore, we need to add some objects for display relativity to increase the depth of field during shooting. For example, to take a distant mountain, you can add a person or a tree to the foreground of the screen. With a wide-angle lens, you can exaggerate the normal space of the subject and the relationship between the portrait depth.
7. Correct Composition
The simplest way to highlight a subject in a photographic diagram is to place the subject at the center of the screen. Because the object to be taken is in the center of the screen, the entire photo has a special stability. However, it is annoying to place the subject in the middle. A good picture is usually very appropriate in the diagram. The most common in photography is the golden splitting diagram, that is, the picture is divided into three parts (horizontal and vertical ), then, place the subject on the same line or at the same intersection. Therefore, we may wish to use the golden splitting to make the shooting diversified.
8. capture details
You can use a wide-angle lens to take a large number of scenes, but such shooting will cause you to lose a lot of details, especially meaningful details. So sometimes the zoom lens should be used to make the screen smaller and capture interesting small pictures.
9. Pre-focus shooting of Characters
When shooting a person, you can wait for the rabbit to determine the shooting position and angle, and adjust the exposure and focal length in advance. We strive to finish shooting in a short period of time, reduce the nervousness of the person being photographed, and get photos with natural expressions. In the changing weather, light also changes, so it is necessary to take more film to have enough images for the final choice.
10. Make full use of the lens
Generally, the optimal aperture for a camera in terms of shooting skills is 5.6-8, and the maximum aperture is 2-3 in the direction of a small aperture. Keep the camera stable, master the correct machine holding mode and body posture, choose a high shutter speed, such as 135 camera 100mm lens, it is best to use 1/125 seconds speed. If you must take a photo at a slow shutter speed, use a tripod to keep the camera stable and ensure that the photo is clearly imaged. Lens filters of different colors can produce clear tone differences between certain colors of a scene. Ultraviolet filters protect lenses from rain and fog, while minimizing the impact of ultraviolet rays on coastal areas and mountainous areas. Source: People's photography daily

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Excessive exposure
For films with excessive exposure, the image is pale and lacks contrast. The reasons for these problems are complicated, including the possible reasons for the speed of the film's sensitivity control disk being lowered, the inaccurate metering table: aperture shrinkage failure, and shutter failure. Excessive development also increases the image density, but the image contrast also increases, which can be different from that.
When this problem occurs, first check the sensitivity setting value on the camera to check whether there is a fault in the metering table, aperture and shutter, and whether there is a problem in the development. For the film that has already been shot, it cannot be processed if it is a color reversed film; if it is a color negative film, you can consider increasing the exposure time during amplification and appropriate correction. Black and white slices can also be saved through thinning.

Film expired
The image taken from expired films is gloomy, with a low contrast, a high degree of haze in the shadow, and a yellowish green color in the colored films. There are two reasons for this problem: first, the validity period indicated on the film box has exceeded a long time, and second, the film was stored in an excessively high temperature environment before being taken and rinsed. In particular, shadow films that have been shot but not flushed are most vulnerable to the temperature impact, and shadow fades.
Therefore, photographers need to develop the habit of storing the film according to the specified conditions and use it within the film validity period. Take the photo and rinse it as soon as possible. If the quality of the film is poor, you can copy the film to increase the contrast and correct color.

Insufficient exposure of average brightness subject
The image and transparent film are characterized by deep and dark density and low density on the negative film. The main problem is that the camera may be faulty, or the speed value of the film sensitivity control disk is set too high, or the metering table is not accurate, or the exposure data is incorrect when the hand-held metering table is transferred to the camera; or the second is faster. In addition, the Film Development is insufficient, and the density of the film is also reduced. However, the shadow density of the film is higher than that of the film with insufficient exposure, which can be different from that of the film.
To detect problems with insufficient exposure, you must first check the film sensitivity settings, whether the metering table is calibrated, and whether there are problems with shutter and development. In the film that has been shot, the quality of the reverse film is difficult to change. Copying the film can improve the brightness of the image and improve the contrast of the image. If the impression is slightly insufficient, the color negative may affect the color saturation of the image, because the color negative is slightly higher than that of the image. The black and white negative parts can be improved by selecting high contrast photo paper and enlarging the image quality.

Insufficient overall exposure
In fact, we don't see recognizable images on such films. The reverse film looks almost black, and the negative film looks almost transparent. It is important to determine whether there is no image at all. In general, films with severe exposure deficiency do not appear due to misoperations or sensitivity settings, but may be due to shutter failures. Sometimes the rinse condition changes. For example, the temperature is too low and the force is insufficient.
When such a problem is found, the shutter needs to be carefully checked, and the camera may need to be sent to the professional maintenance department to handle or check the flushing conditions and quality of medicine. Only films that have been shot can be voided.

Lens glare
During backlight photography, the image experienced pale atomization effect. Seriously affects the performance of image layers. The reason for lens glare is that there is no film in the inferior lens, filter lens or lens, so that the light is scattered on the front lens surface. The lens glare must be different from the camera light leakage phenomenon, it makes the film appear in gray fog, but does not affect the film effect, and the lens glare is similar to the exaggerated effect of the fog mirror.
If the camera has such a problem, you need to add a shadow in front of the lens or remove the existing filter to reduce its impact. Negative films with such problems can increase their contrast when enlarging and copying to reduce their impact.

Use a mirror on the plane
When taking a photo using a partial lens on the plane, a rainbow-like color change will appear on the image. If you need to take a photo on the plane, the best solution is to take a mirror and take a photo on a small plane.

Water Mist string light
Misty patches appear in the image, and their shape is either hard to recognize or approximately circular. It is especially easy to appear in backlight photography. Such glare is caused by water drops or other liquids splash on the lens. The most vulnerable environment to Water Mist glare is photography in rainy days or by the sea, and when there is a strong wind, the problem is more serious. Therefore, when we take photos in such an environment, we need to check the front lens at any time to avoid splashing water and keep it clean.
The splash lens needs to be wiped clean. The impact on images varies depending on the degree of splash, or is serious or mild. If the impact is light, you can adjust the image.

Shooting lamps in daylight

The overall appearance of images is strongly blue, which is often due to the use of a-type or B-type lamps in the daylight environment, or after shooting with a sun film under the light, if you forget to remove the color filter (80 A or similar filter piece), this will also produce this effect.
If the negative film has been shot, the effect will be poor if it is a color reversed film; if it is a color negative film, you can use the amplifier to correct the filter film to a certain extent, but the effect is still not ideal; however, if you use a black/white paper with a high contrast, you may be able to prepare a satisfactory black/white photo.

Insufficient exposure of light subject
The image is very deep on a color reversed image, while the negative image is very low in density. The cause of this problem is that the camera's internal light meter is calibrated on an average of 18% gray panels. If the subject is too bright (such as snow or beach), it will compensate for the brightness of natural light, and the result will make the subject image become gray.
The solution to this problem is that any bright subject must display a higher brightness than the average brightness. Therefore, when shooting such a subject, you need to directly measure the light data, and then increase the exposure of the L-2 block, or use a hand-held light meter to test the reading of the human light, or from the average brightness of the main body to test the reading, alternatively, you can use a 18% gray Panel or its substitute for optical testing.
For the processing of films that have been shot, if the negative film is reversed, the image quality is difficult to change. Copying by means of replication can moderately change the image density, but the details of the Shadow part will still be lost. If the impression is not serious enough and the color is negative, the effect is acceptable. Black and white slice can be amplified using high contrast photo paper.

Blind hood usage Error
The four corners of the image are black and the edges are soft. The cause of the problem is that when taking a photo with a short focal length, the lens mask with a long focal length is used, or when multiple filters are used, the thickness of the Color Filter reflects the field of view of the lens. The solution is to remove the shadow and filter mirror. For films that have been shot, you can crop them as needed when you zoom in or copy them.

Inaccurate focus
It is manifested in the softening of the main image, but from the perspective, not all the focal points are unclear.
The main reason is that the main focus is inaccurate. In some auto-focusing cameras, this phenomenon often occurs when the subject is away from the center and cannot lock the focus. Another important reason is that when the long zoom lens is positioned on the tripod for photography, due to the wear of the Focus Lens cylinder, it will also automatically slide from the focus.
In addition, the positioning error of the camera's focus screen is inconsistent with that of the film plane. The lens itself may also be faulty, but it can be seen on the focusing screen of an SLR camera.
When we find the above problems during photography, we need to check the focus screen and lens of our camera. Check whether the focus of the film plane is clear. In addition, pay more attention to accurate focusing during each filming.

The position of the gradient filter is incorrect.
This is because when the photographer uses a gradient filter to obscure the sky and takes another photo, he forgets to rotate or remove the gradient filter, make the film image taken later bright and dark, and cause serious color imbalance. This is the light blocking effect of the gradient filter. Therefore, after taking a photo, we need to check the color filter and correct it in time. When you zoom in or copy a negative film, you can use the same gradient filter to mask it and often correct it.

Subject Movement
It is shown that the static object images on the screen are clear, and only the main part is dynamically blurred. This is because the film is moved by the subject during the exposure. It is most likely to happen when the camera uses a low-speed shutter to take a fast motion. To avoid moving the subject, you can press the shutter when it slows down. Or increase the shutter speed.
In addition, some people have successfully intentionally used the low-speed shutter to follow the photography of fast moving objects in the context frame, so that the subject can be clear and blurred, so as to achieve dynamic photography effect. However, this requires higher photography skills.

Camera Vibration
The image is blurred. After being enlarged, you can see that the lines of the image are slightly different from those of the dual or multi-shadow. The reason is that the camera is subject to vibration during exposure. This is most likely to happen when a low-speed shutter is used and the camera is installed on a light tripod to take a photo. We can clearly distinguish between the two shadows at the edge of an image and other focal points.
When taking a photo with a camera, the most fundamental way to avoid Camera shaking during exposure is to use a high shutter speed. It is generally believed that the lowest shutter speed that can avoid shaking during camera photography is the reciprocal of the lens focal length. This means that when the 50mm standard lens is used, the shutter should be set to L/60 seconds, when the 100mm center focal lens is used, the shutter should be at L/125 seconds, and so on.
When low shutter speeds are required, you need to install the camera on a stable tripod, release the shutter With the shutter Line Or selfie function, and lock the mirror to reduce the possibility of vibration. In a windy environment, there is also a need for wind equipment.

Flash shutter not synchronized
One side of the captured image has an image and the other is a black image without an image. The reason for this problem is that when a single-lens reflective camera is used for flashing photography, the shutter speed is set too high. If this problem occurs, check the flash on the camera to synchronize the shutter speed and correct it. Currently, SLR cameras produced by different manufacturers often have different highest flash synchronous shutter speeds. common examples include L/60 seconds, 1/90 seconds, and L/125 seconds. on an advanced SLR camera, you can see that the highest flash synchronization speed is L/300 seconds. flash photography can only use this shutter speed or a slower shutter speed than it, you cannot use a faster shutter speed. Otherwise, the above problems may occur. All shutter speeds can be fully synchronized only on the camera with the shutter between mirrors.

Film Crease
Film is characterized by uneven Crease

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How to take good scenery

John Shaw is a professional photographer, danale. this article is mostly based on landscape photography. It was published in December 1994 and is no. ISBN 0-8174-3710-x. eight years after this book was published, the technological revolution has made considerable progress. Although John Shaw cannot predict the current standards, as we all know, his experience is quite helpful, especially for my amateurs. the original book has a large number of pictures, but due to restrictions, it is compressed into an article and cannot be used exclusively. no, Dx. ticket 11.08/16/02

To make a good photo of scenery, you must constantly improve your cultivation and integrate the landscape of nature into your own unique insights. At the same time, you must constantly improve your skills and know how to choose the right shot, location, and aperture/shutter combination.
To a certain extent, masters are the combination of craftsmen and artists.
So how can we proceed?

"The * Header (my) behind the dog's head is the deciding factor" + "buy the best device you can buy" is Jin Yu liangyan.

Camera
The 135 camera is enough to produce excellent works, but the SLR is the best choice (Note: It is recommended that you do not have these functions if your camera doesn't have them:
Exposure Control: Manual exposure control + automatic options: aperture (A) or shutter (s) priority, but never expect to use fully automated (p) instead of everything.
Shutter range: For landscape photography, the pursuit of top-level shutter speed, such as 1/12, 000 "is meaningless. which one do you choose for wild flowers, iso50, F16, 1/60 ", and f2.8, 1/2000? In fact, there are not many opportunities to use more than 1/500.
Depth of field prediction: This is a very useful indicator. professional photographers should see the film, rather than the result of speculation. What should I do if the small aperture and the viewfinder are dark? John Shaw recommends that you use a landline.
Shutter line: it is recommended to help reduce vibration, that is, to use a tripod, but the expensive electronic shutter line .....
Mirror lock: reduce the vibration of 1/8-1/15 seconds, especially with a lens of more than 100mm.
Replaceable landscape screen: it is recommended to use a landscape screen with a grid, that is, Nikon: "E" type (indeed good). Canon: "D" type, Minolta is "S" type.
Point test: It is very helpful. If your camera does not have this function, you can first use a focal lens to measure the light, you can get local data similar to the point test, and then change the appropriate lens to use this data.
Automatic focus/manual focus: manual focus allows you to take a good shot, automatic focus is also available, but if you press the automatic focus lock in one hand, one hand press the Automatic Exposure compensation, you can only use the toe to tune the arena/cloud platform. It is easier to focus manually. however, it is easy to automatically focus in low light.

Lens
At least 24mm to 300mm, preferably 20mm-600mm. additional settings can be added one by one. for landscape photography, f5.6 or a smaller aperture is used in most cases, so it is not necessary for a large aperture to have a fast lens. however, a mirror is added to reduce the light intake by two levels, and the screen is dark ....... A hero's color is displayed in a quick shot.
Fixed focus or zoom? Fixed focus is good, Zoom is good, 28-80mm zoom in 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 70mm focal segment no more than 28mm f1.4, 35 f1.4, 50mm f1.4, 85mm f1.4, however, it is also optional. Technological advances have narrowed the gap between the two. but do not use zoom ratio too large (20-600mm ?, I want to have one. Otherwise, I will be tired of taking a bunch of shots ).
Wide angle: If you can only select one, it must be 24mm, two: 24 + 35, three: 20 + 28 + 35. Or: 30-75, 28-80 Zoom is also the choice.
Header: 50/55mm may be the most sharp among all your lenses. the header macro is more versatile, and more f32 aperture can get a larger depth of field.
Focal point: 70-210/80-200 f2.8 professional zoom and 85,105,135,200 professional fixed focal point. the lens focal length exceeds 135mm. some zoo zoom lenses can be added with a circle and/or near lens for macro photography. We recommend that you use the Nikon near lens with 3 T/4 T and 52mm Jing and 5 t/6 T and 62mm Jing.
Focal Length: 300-600mm, can highlight the local, or wild animals, weapon, strength.
Shift axis lens/leather cavity: can increase the depth of field, a more than landline functions.

Film:
As a professional photographer, John Shaw uses Fuji velvia and Kodak Kodachrome. velvia is more commonly used. a professional photographer buys a bunch of images and tries different exposure compensation to determine the color.

Tripod/head:
One of the shortcuts to improving your photography level is to buy a good tripod and use it. The heavier the tripod is, the better the number of nodes is, the less the better. Try not to stick to the middle column. A word can be said: stable. We recommend Xin,.
Cloud Platform/ball head: the three-dimensional cloud platform provides precise composition, and the ball head is easy to control. The more stable the better, the better, the better.

Filter:
For landscape photography, filters are commonly used, such as reflectors and gray-gradient mirrors.
Polarized lens (CPL): Commonly Used filters make the sky bluer (different levels of the sky, wide angle mirror angle of view, more obvious effect), and reduce reflection, increase saturation. CPL is used in a wide angle mirror and may have an angle. solution: Buy an ultra-thin image, or use a mirror on the first to add a ring.
Medium gray gradient mirror (Gnd): The visual acuity range of a person can accommodate 12 to 14 light changes, while the width of the film is 5, the role of the medium gray mirror is to reduce part of the light intake. suppose you want to take snow-capped mountains and measure the light and snow values F16, 1/250 ". In order to make the Snow White, add two levels of exposure to F16, 1/60" and then test the foreground stone (18% gray, do not need compensation), F4, 1/60 ", the difference between the two 4 levels, if the exposure by the snow, the stone is dark, and the exposure by the stone, the snow is integrated into the sky. at this time, a second-level Gnd can be used. we recommend that you buy-1 and-2 files for Gnd. If necessary, they can be used in combination. small Aperture Gnd has obvious utility.

Light:
Naturally, changes, seasons, weather, and climate all affect light changes. select the right time to take a picture. for a certain period of time, the time when the light changes in the morning and evening is the best time for landscape photography. Bad weather is usually the good weather for landscape photography. the negative part is used to measure the light in the dark area, and the positive part is used to measure the light area. take the sunrise and sunset and add one shift.
If you use the video, measure the light of an object in the middle tone (18% gray) to obtain the correct exposure value. If you have over-exposed 1/2 blocks, the object will be slightly bright. If you have over-exposed 1 block, the object will be bright, over-exposure: 1.5 blocks, objects bright, over-exposure: 2 blocks, objects too bright, over-exposure: 2.5 blocks, and objects completely white. Similarly, under-exposure: 1/2 blocks, objects slightly dark, and under-exposure: 1, the object is dark, the object is under exposure, the object is very dark, the object is under exposure 2, the object is very dark, the object is under exposure 1.5, the object is all black.
Learn to apply the sunshine 16 rule. Do not forget the easy rate for a long time of exposure ., john Shaw recommends the following exposures: Kodachrome 25, 1 "+ 1/2; 4" + 1; 8 "+ 1.5; 16" + 2, 1 "+ 3.5; fuji velvia: 1 "+ 0; 4" + 0; 8 "+ 1/2; 16" + 2/3; 1' + 1.33.

Diagram:
Highlight the subject, select a good prospect, horizontal line, vertical diagram/horizontal diagram based on different environments, observe at different angles, move the tripod.

John Shaw claims to be 20mm 1/250 ", still using a tripod + mirror lock + shutter line! (Don't Be Afraid Of Trouble)

Remember:
Good technology can make up for the shortage of equipment: Excellent Works can still be produced with medium-level equipment and good technology. The best equipment is used randomly and only for garbage. Choose the right time to take a good shot. More practices, more shots.

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Shooting sunrise and sunset

I. Preparation: select a proper location, a proper time, and use the appropriate equipment to take the sunrise and sunset. Everyone knows that the sun rises and falls in the east, and passes through the sky from left to right. When you think about taking effect in advance, for example, you want to use a rock that needs to come out of the ground as a foreground, but the sun does not just fall behind it; the sun will move to the right and may miss this rock, if your goal is to take a picture when the sun falls onto these rocks, you must first move to the left to take the desired picture.
2. Appropriate season: the best season for shooting sunrise and sunset is spring and autumn. These two seasons are later than the sunrise in summer, and the sunset is early, which is advantageous for shooting. There are many clouds in spring and autumn, which can increase the shooting effect.
3. Cloud: the cloud is a natural reflective object during shooting. It can spread the red light of the sun and change constantly. Clouds can also be used as the main theme for shooting. But pay attention to the situation when the cloud covers the sunset; the light will shine after the cloud, so that the photo will be extremely attractive. When the sun approaches the edge of the cloud, the scenery is also very suitable for shooting. Note that when the sun gradually appears in the middle of the bright side, capture the video.
Iv. Reflection: the reflection on the water surface adds color to the pictures of the sunrise and sunset. The calm sea or lake can reflect the scenery in the sky. Presents the same image as in the mirror, and the breeze blowing over the water will always disturb this reflection. Leave a brighter light on the water and draw a margin from the horizon to the foreground of the screen. When the sun gradually falls, this light path will extend to your eyes.
5. Yi Xian. Direct exposure reading to the sun is always inaccurate. This will lead to only the sun on the screen, but the remaining part is not exposed. There are two ways to help you determine the appropriate exposure readings. First, let the sun be in three different positions in the viewfinder, and then take the average values of the three exposure readings. Another method is to directly use the exposure readings when shooting above your head. When shooting the sunrise and sunset, different exposures will produce different shooting effects. Therefore, you can choose to review the shot of the impression readings at the top and bottom of each shot at a time (add one shot and narrow down the block ).
6. Lens: You can use any camera to take a sunset. However, if the sun itself is the subject of the screen, use a long focal length as much as possible. On the standard 35mm screen, the sun is only 1/100 of the focal length. For a standard lens of 50mm, the sun is only 0.5mm, with a lens of 200mm. The sun is 2mm, with a lens of 400mm, and the sun is 4mm.
Once the sun begins to fall, the brightness of the light will be significantly reduced, and you will soon need to use a slow speed, holding a telephoto with your hands, very unstable. Therefore, when shooting the sun, you need to prepare a tripod.
VII. aperture; when sunset is the topic of the work, you should pay more attention to controlling the aperture size. The smaller the aperture, the better the effect.
8. Glare: directly shooting the sun will produce glare in the lens, which will cause serious imbalance in the image contrast. At the same time, the incident light will be reflected to the film by the lens surface to form a spot line. High-quality masks help to restrict glare while using a minimum aperture to reduce these spots. Contrast imbalance should be avoided, but the facular lines caused by lens surface reflection can be used as part of the composition of the work.
The use of a single-lens reflective camera has this optical shift effect, but other cameras are prone to errors and problems.
9. Color arrangement: when the sun gradually falls in the air, the color temperature decreases to form a warm tone. Before the sun was red, it began to show dark yellow, orange, and red on the film. This effect will increase the color of the screen. However, there are very few photographers who can think of changing the tone which is actually wrong. For photographers who want to take real scenes, the 82a light blue filter can remove the warm and warm tones from the sunrise and sunset photos.
10. Protect your eyes: when the sun approaches the horizon, it is generally safe to observe through the viewfinder. The higher the sun is in the air, the more dangerous it is to directly observe the sun, especially with a long distance lens. For safety, you can stick a piece of running or black film (a 35mm-long small film is ideal) to the viewfinder, so that you can observe the sun and determine the best picture.