D80 Experience 1

D80 Experience 1

1. Focus

Although the D80 has 11 focal points, only the center focus is the cross focus. In other words, this is the most accurate point focus, so I have been locking the center focus for a long time. After getting used to it, the chart is also very convenient. First, align with the subject, half-press the shutter, and then move the camera in parallel. The focus is basically OK.

2. Metering

D80 is a bit of test and easy to use, but the most used is 3D matrix light measurement. One problem with spot metering is that the face of a person is OK when there is a lot of contrast between light and shade and when the light is complicated. It is usually inaccurate in other places. 3D matrix light measurement only trouble is close to the main body of some light measurement, and then press the AE-L key lock, and then focus on the diagram, this light measurement is more accurate. When the outdoors or the light is complex, the light measurement from mt5 or 6 meters is often inaccurate, because the field environment has too much interference with the light, d80 and other machines cannot accurately measure the light.

The above two points, after my actual use, the d200 has the same problem. Machines like d2xs are much better and have been used several times. It is no wonder that d2xs is so expensive to sell. Basically, the 11 points can be very accurate. With the bright circular viewfinder, the diagram is too convenient. According to a Nikon new product usage activity, in the dark, I think the current d300 and D3 are very accurate in combination and light measurement.

3. How to clearly picture the characters and background in the background

Basically, there is a process like this: the first aperture mode of file a, close to the face of the person to obtain a data, such as F2 1/125 seconds. Then change to the M manual file, and raise the shutter to 1/125 or above when the aperture remains unchanged, for example, 1/250 seconds, so that the background of the subject is clear. In the same way, the shutter remains the same, and the aperture can be reduced. However, it should be noted that the backlight is too strong. When the ratio of light to light is too large, the reflector or flashlight should be used to fill the light. Otherwise, the exposure of the subject will be seriously insufficient and it will be too dark, of course, the Silhouette effect can also be captured.

4. How to make it clearer

This problem must have existed for a long time and is related to many factors. A good lens and ox's head are better in imaging and resolution. Each time we use 85mm f1.4d, we all scold this header for being expensive and feel this header value. Note the following:

A. Security shutter. This may be the main cause of unclear shooting, especially when the light is not ideal. The reciprocal of the focal length of a lens is a secure shutter. For example, when a 85MM lens is used, theoretically the shutter speed is higher than 1/85, which is not easy to blur. However, a digital SLR such as D80 has a coefficient of 1.5. The actual focal length of all lenses on a Nikon digital SLR must be multiplied by this coefficient, all the 85MM lenses on the D80 are actually 85x1.5 = Lens. 5MM. Therefore, when shooting a video, the shutter must be above 1/127. For example, a shutter such as 1/160 is safe.

In fact, it is 28f2. 8. The lens should also be noted not to be less than 1/60 seconds, because it is related to human breathing, the focal length is shorter, the camera's own weight and the impact of Heartbeat breathing, etc, generally, a hand-held instance is prone to virtual failure after less than 1/60 seconds.

There are many methods to achieve a safe shutter. The common method is to open a large aperture. However, when a small aperture is required, such as taking a landscape, it is rare to use a large aperture such as f2.8. In addition, the aperture cannot be increased due to the lens restriction. For example, if the maximum aperture of the silver wide angle is f3.5, the shutter can be improved by raising the ISO. We recommend that you increase the ISO value of D80 to iso400 at most, and increase the noise to a higher level. After that, d40x is better than D80. Of course, let alone D3.

If you cannot increase the aperture or ISO, you can only use the tripod. You need a tripod to take a picture of the scenery, especially the night scene. This is really true. When conditions are met, a shutter line can be mounted to reduce the vibration on the fuselage.

As a matter of fact, a tripod can solve the problem of shutter safety well. Chinese bainuo is enough for general use. We recommend that you buy a carbon product, which is light and portable. Taking the scenery and taking another shutter line can reduce more machine earthquakes.

B. Focus Problems. Focus mode I personally think it is best to use center cross focus. When the light is not good, D80 is often difficult to focus. We recommend that you use manual mode to focus. (The new d300 and D3, especially the D3 focus system, are greatly improved, and can be very accurate in the dark, I personally feel that af85 is faster and more accurate to focus on d3 without an ultrasonic motor. It is said that the driver capability of the new SLR is improved)

C. Lens problems. Try to use the gold image aperture of the lens for shooting. Each lens has its own image of the best aperture. F2.8, f5.6, F8, and F11 are commonly used. 50mm f1.8d is very good at f2.8, and it can be sharp to shrink to f5.6. However, some ox heads can break this Convention. For example, when 85mm f1.4 was at F2, the imaging of 135mm F2 DC and 17-35mm f2.8d was quite good when they were at the maximum aperture, let alone the abnormal lens in the zoom lens like Xiaozhu gun. This large constant aperture imaging is not bad, so it is no wonder that it is expensive to sell.

D. depth of field problem. This is actually a very important issue that often requires attention. For example, when the D80 uses af85 as the model's f2.8 aperture, if it is 2 meters away from the model, the depth of field is only 6CM, that is, only 6CM of the range before and after the focus is clear! This distance is almost the distance we usually take a person's half body, that is to say, the depth of field is very shallow at this time, it is easy for you to blur the part that you do not want to blur. There is a good depth of field calculator for depth of field. If you are interested, you can calculate it and see how far your favorite lens is from the body and how large the aperture has a depth of depth. Remember! If the depth of field is too small, it will also cause "unclear ".

I personally think that we should not simply use a large aperture to blur the background. The proper reduction of the aperture can not only ensure the imaging quality, reduce the purple side, but also ensure the effective depth of field, avoid the case where one eye of MT is clear and the other eye is blurred. In addition, when the target person has an appropriate environmental effect, the target person can be better promoted.

5. Use the raw format. Although the raw format is too large for later processing, it is recommended that raw be more reliable when taking some photos that you think are important. The exposure is underexposed, and the exposure is within the plus or minus two levels, which can be basically retrieved. In addition, raw files can be converted into TIFF files, which is more conducive to later processing. Nikon's NX software is very powerful and recommended.

6. Handle and battery. The biggest advantage with the handle is the convenience of vertical shooting. It's okay to take about 400 shots at a battery, but it's often a matter of forgetting to charge. It's very practical to have a battery with a handle, and these two items are very durable consumer goods. In the future, if you don't play the second-hand products, you can't lose much money.

How can we produce a high-quality image?

I personally think it is important to stick to the raw format first. Raw not only guarantees a lot of space for post-processing, but also can adjust many parameters, such as exposure and white balance. I generally use raw + basic JPG. Basic JPG is mainly used to quickly browse and select images. Some friends may find it difficult to use JPG later, but the problem with JPG is that if there are many adjustments, it will become "dirty", but it will affect their mood. It is better to pick out some satisfactory solutions, this ensures the quality of the video and increases the success rate.

Raw uses Nikon's NX processing, or Lightroom. Recently, raw is fascinated by Lightroom. Both of them are good software. After processing, If you need images with a lot of PS components, I usually use TIFF files and then use PS for final repairs, which can reduce image losses. Of course, it is usually JPG. After the processing is complete, compress the image to make it easier to communicate online. In most cases, high-quality JPG images are enough for the Internet.

P.s. after using D3, we found that in addition to enabling high ISO, this machine has greatly improved its extensiveness and details, leaving a lot of room for later processing, my D80 is indeed old. If you have the money, you are ready to change to D3. Haha.